The fashion icon Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Than in the 90s.

A serendipitous meeting during a tube journey in 1988 altered the trajectory of a teenage Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the city's electric 1990s cultural landscape, evolving from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.

"That time was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I felt we’d be great friends. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I miss that rawness."

Although Enninful appears wistful, he is far from alone. In recent times, a longing look back of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. But since that time, Enninful believes a profound shift. "I feel, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "It’s not even this country – it’s everywhere."

A Perceived Regression

This shift is increasingly evident: the growth of populist movements, the reaction against social awareness, and the reinforcement of narrow beauty standards. In place of the hope of the Blair era, now a different political personality stands as a possible leader. Furthermore, the Union Jack, once an emblem of national pride, has sparked debate once more.

For Enninful, the solution has long been to celebrate culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the driving force behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, showcasing a broad spectrum of influential figures from art.

"Individuals with a platform should use it," he comments, referring to those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain hadn't been a lenient country, if it did not offer my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I hope this period will fade."

The Younger Generation's Awareness

He finds hope in the younger generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was."

The beginnings of his career would shape a trailblazing career marked by fearlessness and inclusivity. Enninful set a precedent as the first male, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to assume the editorship at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, plus-sized women, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Critically, sales grew.

"Ignoring vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re not being inclusive – it’s commercially unwise," he emphasises.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his key endeavour since departing his previous role. He expresses a desire to continue being a "change-maker".

"I constantly interrogate the established norms. I was brought up in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the doctors, the attorneys, the president. Then we arrived in England, with nothing, and I was a minority. I was painfully reserved. My teachers said I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were harassed under the suspicion laws … this duality gave me a sense of being both an insider and outsider."

In contrast to the stereotype of industry figures as brash and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and exudes calm. His journey has involved challenges, including publicly shared battles with mental health and addiction.

He has also faced serious health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to partial sight. "I experienced such a time of fear for two years, not working, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever ends, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This determination to be typecast has led him away from the realm that built his career. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a roster of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to capture the decade's artistic collaboration – and spotlight those who lacked adequate attention at the time.

"The establishment didn't always shine a light on the truly innovative creators because they weren't of the right pedigree," he comments.

This venture itself operates on a unique approach, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "Our approach is, what can we do together? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is one component of a broader vision."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Now, Enninful operates as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His path, he states, is a proof to the power of defying expectations.

What would the younger Edward react to the his current self? He chuckles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be pleased. Back then I was sceptical of institutions. I didn't think institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He pauses. "Gratitude is key. We were displaced, we fled our country. I nearly lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have underestimated me my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."