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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.